Changsha in the Eyes of an American

In September 2018, I arrived in Changsha, capital of central China’s Hunan Province. I was greeted at the airport by a student from Changsha University with a sign bearing my name. What I didn’t expect, however, was how deeply this city would weave itself into my heart. Over the years, Changsha became not just a place where I lived and worked, but the friendships, stories, and discoveries profoundly shaped my understanding of China.

Thrills and tranquility

Changsha is a wonderful place offering me many exciting experiences. I remember a great outing to Sakura Valley Park one summer when I worked in Changsha University as a teacher. Along the Xunlong River, the park is known for an iconic glass bridge and life-sized dinosaur statues. Walking across the transparent bridge, daring to look down is a test of courage blended with entertainment. Another favorite place of mine in Changsha is the Window of the World amusement park with a whirlwind tour of global landmarks. I had an annual pass for about five years which opened up the opportunity for many quick roller coaster rides during breaks between classes.

I would often visit Wanjiali Square shopping mall, which has an amazing rooftop to visit with statues and carvings depicting many of the myths and stories of China. I’ve also run into Bill Gates, Barack Obama, Warren Buffett and many other famous wax figures in a museum on the 11th floor. For all its excitement, the city also offers moments of serenity. The Changsha botanical gardens are so beautiful, but I didn’t have to go far for eye pleasing views. The campus of Changsha University where I lived and worked was often voted the most beautiful campus in Hunan Province. Its manicured gardens, tranquil ponds and ancient trees create a setting that feels like stepping into a traditional Chinese painting. Strolling through the campus at dusk, as the golden light filters through the trees, remains one of my most cherished memories.

A feast for the senses

Changsha is the center of Hunan cuisine and the city of dainties. There are hundreds of amazing restaurants and delicious dishes to try. Not only are they countless in number, but also unique in flavor.

One of my go-to dishes was shengjianbao (pan-fried buns) from a favorite vendor of mine in the Sifangping Night Market, very near to my campus. The first time I tried one, a student tried to stop me in the act of taking a bite practically yelling a warning at me. But I didn’t listen and got the deliciousliquid filling all down the front of my shirt. I wasn’t careful enough on the second one either, but my shirt was already soiled, so it didn’t matter. I quickly learned how to bite a small hole and suck out the juice first or just put the whole thing in my mouth before biting down on it. I became friends with the vendor, and he would even sneak me an extra one when I bought an order.

The heart of Changsha

Changsha’s charm lies not only in its landmarks and food but also in its people. There’s an unspoken warmth in the way locals interact, whether it’s a shopkeeper offering an extra handful of fruit or a stranger helping you navigate a crowded street. The city’s residents are a reflection of its personality: lively, humorous, and deeply rooted in tradition even as they embrace modern technology and lifestyles.

My experience of the city would be incomplete without mentioning some of my dear friends. First, the owner of a local fruit store where the juiciest oranges and sweetest watermelons are sold with a smile. The owner’s warmth and humor made our exchanges a daily highlight, and over time, those transactions blossomed into a genuine friendship. We often corrected each other’s pronunciation in our second languages and enjoyed many laughs together.

Many of my university students were locals. I had fun dressing up on Halloween, posing for funny photos, building snowmen together in the winter and helping them carry their luggage by my electric motorcycle with a red wagon at the start of every semester. One of my favorite things to do was to sneak into other classrooms before classes started and draw a smiley face on the chalkboard. Over time I got smart and started using a wet cloth instead of chalk so it would disappear before their teacher showed up.

One story at a time, Changsha isn’t just a city I lived in, but a city I carry with me. Whether you’re a curious traveler seeking adventure, a food lover eager to sample authentic Hunan cuisine, or someone simply looking for inspiration, Changsha awaits you with open arms.

The author worked as an honorary professor of English public speaking at Changsha University from 2018 to 2024.